In 1997 a scandal broke out, unlike any other. River Café Cook Book by Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers was newly published. In it there was a recipe for a cake I’ve never made or eaten or been served: dark, flour-less and baked until set in a bain marie. In fact I didn’t know what a bain marie was until writing this post (it’s a type of heated water bath). It turns out that for most people this recipe didn’t work. Amateur chefs and professional chefs tried and all of them ended up with a fresh brown liquid.